Boat Plans Bruce Roberts | Guest cabin dressing room

Boat Plans Bruce Roberts

The basic layout of the cabin area below is as follows: Down four steps from the salon above. Once at the bottom of the steps, you can either turn left through a door and get to the master cabin, or go straight through another door to get to the guest cabin dressing room/hallway. One has to go through this area to get to the guest cabin/kids cabin located in the forward area of the hull. Each cabin has a door to access the common bathroom where the shower and toilet is located. Each cabin ( master and guest) has its own sink. The engine room is accessed from the master cabin through a water tight steel door.

Standing in the guest cabin dressing room, one will find a large sink base with storage underneath, four wall mounted cabinets, and a bench seat with storage underneath it. There will be two ceiling mounted DC lights, and one ceiling mounted AC light with all lights being controlled by switches on the wall. There is also a decent amount of wall space available to have some hanging storage without impacting ones ability to walk through the space.

Because of my wish filled thinking regarding shower sump pumps, I had to re think how I was going to hold the gray water from the shower and cabin sinks. I decided to add a holding tank, and the most logical place for it was under one of the bunks against the dressing room bulkhead. I was going to buy a plastic tank, but since I had enough stainless plate left over from the water tank construction I decided to fabricate my own and save some cash. The tank ended up with 47 gallons of capacity.


Under the sink base in the dressing room is some of the gray water plumbing. The through hull fitting you see is above the water line. When we have to hold our gray water, the blue valve will be shut and the black valve will be open. This will direct the water to the main sump which will then direct the water to the 47 gallon holding tank I just built. When we can discharge gray water, the blue valve will be open, the black valve will be closed, and the shower sump will discharge overboard via the black pipe when the sump selector valve is in that mode. Its a pretty simple set up albeit a bit on the bulky side, but I made everything from parts found in the shop and did not have to depart with any cash. The elbow on he end of the manifold is for the guest cabin dressing room sink once I get that sink installed.

I built four more cabinets to fill up the wall in this room, and stopped them well short of the port light. One of the cabinets will be the medicine cabinet above the sink, while the other three will be general storage. The cabinets are 12 inches deep at the base, and about 18" deep at the top. Im also using these cabinets as the chase for the air conditioning duct that will feed the guest/kids cabin. That duct will be a four inch flexible pipe.

In order to give one as much privacy as possible, there will be a door between the dressing room and the bunk room. The door will be 20" wide.

I had enough room to create a bench in the dressing room so people could sit down while they were getting dressed. I installed a piano hinge on the lid of the bench so the bench could double as a locker for more storage.

The room is a fuzz narrow, but Im able to easily navigate through it without bumping my knees or having to turn the least bit sideways. I think this space will be an important part of the boat in regard to helping all on board with privacy, and a sense of having ones own space. To be honest, this is a very comfortable room even though its function is mostly utilitarian.

I have six doors to build for this room, and one more sheet of plywood to install on the partition between the master cabin and this space. I also have to plug all the screw holes, sand everything, and get a coat or two of finish on the wood. Once those jobs are finished, Im ready to start work on the sleeping room and its four bunks. Once the doors are installed and some finish on the wood, Ill post some more pics.

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Boat Plans Building | Anchor Winch

Boat Plans Building

Wood working continues in other parts of the boat, but I thought Id blog a bit about the anchor winch.

Id always intended on using a chain windlass to handle my anchor, but this used winch was available, so I made the switch to a deck winch. This type of winch is a pretty simple piece of equipment with very few working parts which should provide me with a reliable tool to handle the ground tackle. As you can tell, this is a used winch, but given the simple nature of the beast, it will not take much to go through it. Once Im done with the wood working, Ill do a re build on this winch.

The valving on this winch lets me power down, free spool, and power up. The line pull on the unit is 1500 lbs, which is adequate to handle my ground tackle.

I like the commercial, fish boat look of this winch, and I think it will look sharp on pulpit of my trawler. The winch is on the fence in terms of being just large enough for our boat. I spoke with the manufacturer, and they felt as if it would do the job. The line pull on the next two larger size models is the same, but the thickness of the metal base is more on the larger units, along with being able to handle more rode. This unit is cast aluminum, and the base plate ( the area where the winch bolts to my deck) thickness is 3/4". The manufacturer was concerned that a boat of my displacement might risk cracking the base plate if I were to get caught in a strong blow. He suggested that I use rope vs wire rope, and snub the anchor rode to a bit. The winch can handle 275 of 5/8" rope along with 40 of 3/8 chain leaving a 1" gap below the housing. I like to use a 5:1 scope when anchoring, and the amount of rode is at my minimum comfort level. Ive never anchored in more than 40 of water, but you never know.

Its nice to be able to check another item off the list.

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Canoe Boat Plans | Anchor roller

Canoe Boat Plans

From the start of the boat build, I had intended on handling the anchor with a vertical windlass. Specifically, chain on one side of the windlass, and rope on the other side. For that purpose, I fabricated two anchor rollers welded to my pulpit. After that fact, I came across a good deal on a commercial deck winch which caused me a basic change in how the anchors would be retrieved. I want to center the winch on the pulpit which meant the off centered rollers for the windlass possibly could be less than ideal for how the winch was going to work.

Because I had enough room between the two existing anchor rollers, I decide to cut in a third anchor roller more in line with the position of the new anchor winch. My reasons for centering the anchor roller was to allow the rode ( either rope or galvanized cable) to be square with the winch drum. Im not familiar with how a winch will work, but it seemed to me that having the rode square with the drum was a good thing. I also did not want to scrap the windlass purpose rollers I had fabricated in case I wanted to go back to the hydraulic windlass set up. The new center anchor roller is more self launching than the first two I fabricated so that is one plus I got out of this little bit of re work I just finished.

I used 1/4" 316 SS plate to fabricate the new roller frame. The frame is pretty robust as it is not a stand alone deal, rather it is welded in to the pulpit so its supported and reinforced by the pulpit. I added some 1/2" round stock to the area where the anchor flukes will jamb against the roller frame. The actual roller is a composite material turning on a 1/2" SS pin, and is tucked up out of harms way in the frame. I plan on snubbing off the anchor to bits, so these rollers, while fairly stout, will not be taking the loads of anchoring.

I had a large Danforth type anchor in the shop, and that is actually going to be one of my back up anchors. I used the Danforth for a test run on how the geometry of the rollers worked, and I was pleased on how the anchor landed in the roller frame. I will need to add some SS round stock to the under side of the two side roller frames as the center anchor is going to beat these up as it is locked home. Its hard to tell scale from these pictures, but that Danforth is a pretty large anchor. Id guess the weight of the anchor at 60 lbs with the overall length of the being more than 3. My buddy Andy Moran gave me the anchor as a boat warming present.

Ive had good luck using Danforths to anchor in the river, and I intend on having two aboard. I think my primary anchor is going to be a Manson, and that will reside in the center roller. The large Danforth will reside in the starboard roller, and the port roller will be empty. I will also have an aft anchor which will be another Danforth.

I getting a little tired of re work, but I do think Im at the end of having to fix changes of design. Re doing this part of the pulpit was not a huge job, but it was a pain. All the metal work is completed on the fore deck, and I can now proceed with getting that area prepped for paint. I have to do some body work on some seams, and a little bit of fairing, but not a huge amount of work. I have decide to paint my 1 1/2" SS rails I welded to the bulwark cap vs polishing them, so that will require a little bit of sand blasting. Polishing the SS pipe rails would probably work for life on the Ohio River, but since I intend on ocean cruising, I fear my polishing skills will leave my rails rusting in the salt water environment.

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Boat Blind Plans | More painting

Boat Blind Plans

Ive been busy with life here at home and have been away from things boat building for a few weeks. I have been making some headway on getting a some paint work done so Ill update on that.

I want to get the fore deck and Portuguese bridge finish painted. I need the fore deck painted to install the forward hatch, and I just want to get things off of the list. Like all things boat building, the fore deck paint turned into more than I had figured. I dont know if projects are turning into more than I figured for, or if I just gave up getting in a hurry. I had sand blasted, primed and scuffed the fore deck last year so a large part of the prep work was completed. I decided to paint the stainless steel 1 1/2" hand rails vs polishing them, so I sand blasted the rails to give the primer something to grab on to. The Portuguese bridge was a mess and had to be sand blasted. I did not have to take the whole thing down to white metal, but at least 1/3 of that area did go to white metal.

Since I gave up getting in a hurry, I decided to fair some of the fore deck and Portuguese bridge. I ran an epoxy fillet between the bulwark and deck area, and the Portuguese bridge and deck area. I faired away the all the grinder marks and a some a few areas where you could see plate joints. I also faired the large deck joints. I faired the hawse openings on the fore deck where the dock lines will pass through, and the whole pulpit area. All the areas with fairing compound on them will have to get two more coats of primer before I spray top coat paint. I had thought about using high build prime, and blocking the fore deck and portuguese bridge back down, but thats a lot of work, and I dont think a mirror yacht finish is that important for these areas.

The frames that are welded to the decks and bulwarks or Portuguese bridge will be treated a little differently. No matter how careful I try to get that joint painted I dont think my efforts will be good enough. So for these areas, Im going to use and automotive paint product called seam sealer. Seam sealer is basically a caulk that will remain flexible, but will allow the top coat paint to stick to it. If you look inside your car trunk or under the hood, you will probably see where the manufacturer used seam sealer. Ive seen boats that are framed like mine, and most of them seem to have rust stains coming from joints like this. Im hoping this little bit of work and money will solve that problem.

After I finish sanding the faired areas, Im going to scuff all the paint with some 3m pads. I have a hook and loop DA air sander, and if I cut round shape on the 3m pads, I can hook the pads to the DA and save on some elbow grease. Once everything is scuffed, Ill apply the seam sealer then prime the seam sealed joints and all the un primed fairing compound. Once the primer is on, Ill have 72 hours to get the top coat paint on or Ill have to re scuff the newly primed areas.

My goals and schedule of work for the next five months is to finish the fore deck and Portuguese bridge paint, and install the forward hatch. Ive made arrangements for a sand blaster to blast below the water line so I can get the below the water line area barrier coated. Once that part of the hull is painted, Im going to scuff the hull and top coat paint it. At that point, the hull will be ready to leave the shop, so Ill be working on getting it on a dolly for the trip to the launch site.

If I want to get her in the water next season ( 2013) I really need her at the launch site by early October. October is the driest month of the year around hear, with that dryness carrying on in to November. October will be an excellent month to weld the wheel house and salon to the hull and have her dried in for the Winter. If I can meet that schedule, I will have the Winter and Spring to trim out the Salon and Wheel house and a 2013 launch will be doable.

I really love the fore deck and Portuguese bridge. The foredeck is large and uncluttered, and the railing is of a good height and stoutness. The Portuguese bridge is of a height that will make all on board feel secure as the boat is on passage. As I stand at the Portuguese bridge while the boat is in the barn, and dream of the future, I can almost see how the sea will look as the sun starts to dip below the horizon. The only problem Im having with these two areas is that they are a pain in the ass to paint. The barn has 16 ceilings, and these two areas are in the trusss, so one has to sort of stoop/walk to navigate this area. If you were to find yourself working on my build and on this part of the boat, I can almost guarantee you would crack your head numerous times on the trusss. Another week or so of sticking to this less than ideal job, and Ill be able to scratch this project off of the list I have been meaning to write.

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