Canoe Boat Plans | Master cabin cabinet doors

Canoe Boat Plans

If youre ever in the market to get your fingers bobbed, grab a six pack of tall boys and come on over to my shop where you can play around with the wood shaper. The wood shaper has a 3 hp motor and whirls some heavy bits around at 12,000 rpm. The sound made by the bits spinning is almost as impressive as the wood that pukes out the discharge shoot. The shaper is a nice tool I bought about 20 years ago while I was renovating houses, and its becoming quite the handy item on the big boat build.

The doors I built for the three cabinets in the master cabin are straight forward cabinet style doors. They are what Id call frame and panel doors consisting of styles and rail pieces with a raised panel. These doors are overlay doors meaning the sit on top of the cabinets face frame vs a flush door that would fit within the face frame. Overlay doors are much easier to build and require a tenth of the precision that flush doors require. The method of joinery Im using is called cope and stick. Basically one cuts a grooved profile in the panel side of all the styles and rails, then you cope the rail ( top and bottom horizontal pieces) to fit into that profile. The panel then floats in that frame you just created. Its a pretty nice looking door and adds a little more detail than one would get by using a flat plywood panel.

Ive built some doors for some other projects lately, and on those projects I used 1/4" plywood for the panels. On the boat build, Ive decided to invest more of my time and build raised panels for all the cabinets ( well at least the cabinets in the master cabin and probably the galley). Because the raise panel is a solid wood panel, I had to build the doors to allow for seasonal movement of the panel. The air is pretty dry here now that we are in the late fall time, so if fit the panel on the loose side. I gave myself 1/4" gap all around the panel to allow the panel to "float" within the frame. I cut some pieces of 1/4" foam backer rod and stuffed the backer rod in to the groove of the style and rail before I assembled the door. The backer rod holds the panel centered in the frame while allowing it to expand and contract as humidity changes. After I get all the finish on the doors, I might go back and put a dab of glue in the center of the rail @ the center of the panel. Since wood expands across the grain, a little bit of glue at this location will allow the panel to expand while helping with any rattle I might get when the door closes. If one would glue the panel tight all the way around the style and rail frame, it wouldnt be long before the expanding panel would destroy the frame. Before I assembled the doors I put a coat of finish on all the panels. If I didnt finish the panel prior to assembly, a line of unfinished wood would show up once the panel started to expand or contract. I clamped some boards to the edge of the work bench to help keep the doors square while I assembled them. I then checked the diagonals to assure the door was perfectly square before I clamped them.

After I assembled the doors, I gave each door three coats of urethane sanding with 320 grit between coats. I used a self closing hinge that holds the door shut. I dont think Ill put much faith in these hinges holding the door shut once the boat experiences some weather, so Ill install some catches of some style to make sure the doors stay shut. While the drawers have no pull hardware, Im thinking of installing some pulls on the doors.

Do you find information about Canoe Boat Plans are you looking for? If not, below may help you find more information about the Canoe Boat Plans. Thank you for visiting, have a great day.

Continue

Boat Plans Bartender | Cabin Plumbing

Boat Plans Bartender

The master cabin wood work is complete and before I can continue wood work in the rest of the lower hull, I had to get some plumbing issues worked in.

Each cabin has its own sink. There is a common area shared by both cabins for the shower and toilet. The guest cabin has a bunk room, and a separate dressing area where the guest cabin sink resides. The time was now upon me to get all the water lines and drains lines installed for these areas.

For the shower I decided to do a build a conventional shower pan with cement and a pvc liner. Ill use tile as the finished shower floor. The shower drains to a shower sump, then the gray water will be directed either over board, or to a holding tank in the aft section. Since the sink in the master cabin is amid ship, and I did not want a through hull fitting ( I only have one below the water line through hull fitting on board) for the sink, I decided to share the master cabin sink share the shower sump. I plumbed the master cabin sink into the shower sump with 1" flexible PVC.

The guest cabin has its own sink, and this sink discharges directly over board, or into the shower sump. The drain line for the guest cabin sink is also 1" flexible PVC.

I installed the shower valve in the head. I also installed the sink valve in the master cabin. The sink valve will be installed in the guest cabin once I have the wood work completed in that area.



The biggest decision I had to make was how to run the 1/2" water lines for all these devices. I had the choice to either run one hot and one cold from the water pump and have a forest of "T"
fittings under the sole, have each fixture be fed from a central manifold that distributed the hot and cold. I chose to have a central manifold to supply the boat. Having a bunch of "T" fittings did little to give me a warm fuzzy feeling on future maintenance of the boat, and the manifold just made good sense. The hot and cold manifold will be in the lazzerette area of the boat, and will make maintenance and winterizing a breeze. If I choose to expand the water system, Ill do so from this manifold. Since Ill have an air compressor on board, winterizing will be just a matter of opening manifold valves, and blowing all the lines out from one location.

I ran all the water lines in one bundle down the port side of the boat. I had drilled a two inch hole through the galley frames, and installed rubber grommets in the holes to protect the water lines. The rest of the path for the water lines ran through a chase I had created with cabinets and a little framing. The framed chase is easily accessed through the cabinets, or by removing a panel in the master cabin. The framed chase also houses some electric conduit, the water port side water tanks vent lines manifold, the hydraulic lines for the steering system, and more than likely, the hydraulic lines for leading the the wheel house. A pretty busy chase to say the least. The starboard side of the boat has a similar chase that houses the air conditioning feed for the cabins, the toilet waste transport line( if I decide to use a pump model), and some electric conduit.

Since I wanted fill the two inch grommets in the frames, I decided to include the wash down line for the anchor area ( one 1/2" line ), and I also had enough room to include a 1/2" line that will supply compressed air to the wheel house. Ill probably "T" off of this air line in the wheel house and run air to the wash down pump area. When ever I have to get into the area under the bow pulpit, Ill use an impact wrench to remove the 15 or so bolts holding the on the cover plate.





Im leaning towards installing a composting toilet so I installed an 1 1/2" vent line for that type of toilet. I also have a 1 1/2" sch. 40 line installed to transport waste to a black water tank if I decide to use a macerating type toilet.











Since I had the master cabin sink valves installed I wanted to see how the sink fixture looked installed. Because I was scrounging for every available inch in the master cabin, it made more sense to have the sink valve mounted on the wall vs mounted on the sink top. Ive never seen that type of valve before, and Im real happy with how it looks. I also like the look of the under mount sink. In regard to the under mount sink, there was quite a bit more size choices in a bar style vs a vanity style as long as one can live with the bar size sink strainer ( Im one of those folks who can live with bar style sink strainer).

Do you find information about Boat Plans Bartender are you looking for? If not, below may help you find more information about the Boat Plans Bartender. Thank you for visiting, have a great day.

Continue

Boat Plans Wooden | More cabinet work

Boat Plans Wooden

The galley cabinet doors are finished along with the cabinet where the LP range resides. All the cabinet case work is finished and all that is left is to urethane the four drawers for the galley cabinets.

 Progress seems to have slowed down a bit as Ive been doing a few projects around the house. One larger project was building an Island for our Kitchen. I had some nice Walnut stashed in the loft of the barn and just had enough to get the island built. The business end of the island has two doors and two drawers on it and give us some much needed cabinet space. Were looking for a remnant piece of granite for the top, so for the time being the plywood you see is doing fine.

The roof of the salon has about a five degree arch to it so I decided to build the doors to match the arch. I  built the cabinet boxs square, but did not want the step look of square doors against the arched ceiling, so I decided to match the ceiling with the doors. The top style of the cabinet frame, was made four inches vs my standard two inches and scribed to the proposed ceiling. I should say at this time that Im giving myself plenty of a fudge factor since I"m building all this without having finished walls and ceilings in place. In critical areas, I m building in large over hangs and fillers that I can scribe, trim and fit once shes at the launch site. Its kind of tough to do things this way, but its how it has to be done. The bottom of the doors are square while the top of the doors  has a five degree angle on them. The five degree angle is also in the top of the raised panel. It sounds pretty easy, but it gave me a little of a fit. The angle changes just a fuzz as you move port, so I had to do some adjusting. Adjusting means throwing cut pieces in the wood stove and starting over. Once I had all the doors fabricated and I was fitting them to the ceiling, I dropped one of the doors on the concrete slab and gave the wood stove some more fuel. Replacing the door should have been a smooth operation given I built it once before, and still had my cut sheet. I must have forgot the measure twice and cut once thing, because I built the door backwards and ended up feeding the wood stove some more. Im really in no hurry, and while its a frustrating thing turning a simple job in to a dragged out comedy, it really doesnt bother me too much and Ive given up getting pissed off. Its all over now, and I do think it looks pretty good. The bead board ceiling is going to be 5/8" thick and when I open the new doors it looks like Im going to have about 3/8" clearance between the doors and the ceiling. It should look sweet against the painted ceiling.

The range cabinet is another build that became a little bigger than I had planned. Because I had to center the range in the galley, and me wanting a certain amount of galley space, I had to use 7" fillers on either side of the range. Not wanting to waste that space, I built two doors to go in each of the filler space. The doors are on their side, and while only four inches wide, one will be used for a spice rack, and one will be used to hang long utensils. I used some 1/4" aluminum round stock to created the keeper for the pull out shelves. Because I used raised panel doors on the cabinets to either side of the range cabinet, I had to do some careful layout when building the pull out shelves. One inch is about the minimum I like to go for a frame, so I was able to hold the pull out shelf an inch away from the range. This gives  me about 5/16 of clearance as the pull out shelve pulls past the raised panel door on t he sink base to the left, and the door/drawer cabinet to the right.   I had to  notch the back of the range cabinet so I could get a six inch air conditioning duct from the lazzarette to the wheel house, and this cut out encroaches in to the space under the range. Because I framed in the duct cut out,  I was able to create a larger pull out drawer under the range, and the smaller space  under that drawer ( where the ac duct notch is ) became a cubby accessed by a drawer front that flips down. Im also  happy with how this looks and how I was able to snatch some usable space out of the range cabinet.

Ive been toying around with how to build the drawers for the galley, salon, and wheel house and have decided on dove tails. All the drawers in the cabins below use a sliding dove tail on the drawer side that slides in to a dove tail dado on the drawer front. The sliding  dove tail is a good joint, but I like the look of the half  blind dove tail joint. For the four galley drawers, Im going to  use a half blind dove tail and screw a drawer front on the that box. All the drawers are going to be solid wood  sides and fronts, with a plywood bottom and a plywood back. The back and bottom will fit in to a dado. The salon drawers under the salon table settee will also be half blinds with drawer fronts. All of these drawers will be overlays. Im thinking about going with a different look in the wheel house and maybe use a flush drawer with a through dove tail for the joints. Im getting a little ahead of myself with the wheel house thoughts, but its not too far down the list. A guestimated drawer count for what Im going to be building is four in the galley, seven in the salon, and eight or nine in the wheel house. When its all said and done, I think Ill be pushing over 50 drawers on board. Its starting to feel like a floating cabinet.

I should be posting some drawer construction in a week or so as Ive already started building them. 

Cheers    

Do you find information about Boat Plans Wooden are you looking for? If not, below may help you find more information about the Boat Plans Wooden. Thank you for visiting, have a great day.

Continue

Boat Blind Plans | Bow Thruster

Boat Blind Plans

If you ever look out in harbor some day and see a trawler that hopefully looks like the picture on my header. And if that trawler is in the middle of the harbor fairway doing doughnuts, you can have this baby to thank for that ability.

As posted earlier on fabricating the bow thruster tube, Im going to have a bow thruster on my boat. My thruster is hydraulic and will run off of the live PTO on the main engine. Because the thruster is hydraulic, I can run the thing 24/7 if I want to. I dont have to worry about it over heating, or batteries going dead, solenoids failing, wire corrosion, bad connectors... you get my drift. I understand why most folks go with the electric thrusters, but in my opinion, the electric units are a distant second place to a hydraulic unit.

Fluid power is bullet proof, idiot proof, and lasts a stinking long time with extremely low maintenance. The best thing about hydraulic powered equipment, is that its there when you need it with power to spare for as long as you need power.

This unit was built by Key Power Equipment, and I cant say enough good things about those folks. Theres a link on this page if you want to contact them.

Do you find information about Boat Blind Plans are you looking for? If not, below may help you find more information about the Boat Blind Plans. Thank you for visiting, have a great day.

Continue

Boat Plans Butler | Medicine Cabinet

Boat Plans Butler

The last cabinet in the master cabin is the medicine cabinet that resides over the sink. The medicine cabinet is a basic cabinet with solid sides, a ply back, and a frame and panel door. Ive yet to assemble the door although I have all the parts cut and milled. I was going to have a mirror made, then use the mirror as a panel and permanently install it the same way as one would install a panel. That method is probably not such a wise idea so I think Ill have a mirror made, then use clips to hold it against the panel. When the mirror gets broken, it will be a simple matter to get a new one.

I wanted to add some interest to the medicine cabinet so for the side of the cabinet everyone will see, I chose a piece of highly figured wood. The piece I used came from the crotch of the tree and has a lot of interesting, flame like grain. To add a little more detail to a pretty basic piece, I decided to use dovetails to join the case parts.

I hand cut the dovetails vs using a jig to machine them with a router. I like the look of hand cut dovetails, and given the time it takes to set up a jig, its just as fast to hand cut the joint.

All the measuring is done by using a marking gauge, a square to transfer lines, and eyeball judgement. I use a pencil to mark the tails, and a awl to scribe the lines for the pins. I use a dovetail saw to make the vertical cuts, then use a chisel to chop out the waste leaving my lines. I use my chisel as a layout tool to mark the ends of the pins. By using that chisel as a dimension, I know the chisel will fit in the joint making chopping a breeze. Speaking of making chisel work a breeze, I kind of think a chisel is useless unless its sharp enough to shave hair off of ones arm. When sharpening my chisels and planes, I start with an oil stone, then finish the task using Japanese water stones. The last stone I use puts a mirror finish on the edge. I dont have a strop, but I will use the side of my leather work boot to finish the edge. A nice sharp chisel makes a great sound as you use it to pare away a few thousandths of hard wood.

I could have picked an easier piece of wood to hand dovetail. The highly figured wood comes with price in that its extremely dense with no rhyme or reason to how the grain runs. A razor sharp chisel is a crucial piece to the puzzle of getting this small job done without wasting ones time.

The weather is starting to go downhill so Im expecting work to start slowing down in the next few weeks. Id like to be finished with the bulk of the master cabin within the next four weeks, and to be honest with you, I think thats doable. Im kind of down to punch out type jobs and wrapping up some loose ends, so given that to do list, I think Ill put in another order for the rest of the plywood to finish the hallway, head, and kids bunk room.

My goal is to have the wood work for all the rooms complete by the time spring hits. Ive started to put a dent in my stock pile of cherry lumber, and while I think I have enough to complete the Salon, Im getting a little nervous. Now that the sap is down in our trees, I have five or six nice cherrys I think Im going to harvest. One of the trees is going to be nothing but curly grain, and I think Ill use that to build the panel doors for the galley cabinets and the panels for the wheel house helm. Ill be needing that lumber by next winter, so I might need to do something drastic like building a small solar kiln to speed things up.

Do you find information about Boat Plans Butler are you looking for? If not, below may help you find more information about the Boat Plans Butler. Thank you for visiting, have a great day.

Continue