Boat Plans Building | Anchor Winch

Boat Plans Building

Wood working continues in other parts of the boat, but I thought Id blog a bit about the anchor winch.

Id always intended on using a chain windlass to handle my anchor, but this used winch was available, so I made the switch to a deck winch. This type of winch is a pretty simple piece of equipment with very few working parts which should provide me with a reliable tool to handle the ground tackle. As you can tell, this is a used winch, but given the simple nature of the beast, it will not take much to go through it. Once Im done with the wood working, Ill do a re build on this winch.

The valving on this winch lets me power down, free spool, and power up. The line pull on the unit is 1500 lbs, which is adequate to handle my ground tackle.

I like the commercial, fish boat look of this winch, and I think it will look sharp on pulpit of my trawler. The winch is on the fence in terms of being just large enough for our boat. I spoke with the manufacturer, and they felt as if it would do the job. The line pull on the next two larger size models is the same, but the thickness of the metal base is more on the larger units, along with being able to handle more rode. This unit is cast aluminum, and the base plate ( the area where the winch bolts to my deck) thickness is 3/4". The manufacturer was concerned that a boat of my displacement might risk cracking the base plate if I were to get caught in a strong blow. He suggested that I use rope vs wire rope, and snub the anchor rode to a bit. The winch can handle 275 of 5/8" rope along with 40 of 3/8 chain leaving a 1" gap below the housing. I like to use a 5:1 scope when anchoring, and the amount of rode is at my minimum comfort level. Ive never anchored in more than 40 of water, but you never know.

Its nice to be able to check another item off the list.

Do you find information about Boat Plans Building are you looking for? If not, below may help you find more information about the Boat Plans Building. Thank you for visiting, have a great day.

Continue

Boat Plans Bartender | Cabin Plumbing

Boat Plans Bartender

The master cabin wood work is complete and before I can continue wood work in the rest of the lower hull, I had to get some plumbing issues worked in.

Each cabin has its own sink. There is a common area shared by both cabins for the shower and toilet. The guest cabin has a bunk room, and a separate dressing area where the guest cabin sink resides. The time was now upon me to get all the water lines and drains lines installed for these areas.

For the shower I decided to do a build a conventional shower pan with cement and a pvc liner. Ill use tile as the finished shower floor. The shower drains to a shower sump, then the gray water will be directed either over board, or to a holding tank in the aft section. Since the sink in the master cabin is amid ship, and I did not want a through hull fitting ( I only have one below the water line through hull fitting on board) for the sink, I decided to share the master cabin sink share the shower sump. I plumbed the master cabin sink into the shower sump with 1" flexible PVC.

The guest cabin has its own sink, and this sink discharges directly over board, or into the shower sump. The drain line for the guest cabin sink is also 1" flexible PVC.

I installed the shower valve in the head. I also installed the sink valve in the master cabin. The sink valve will be installed in the guest cabin once I have the wood work completed in that area.



The biggest decision I had to make was how to run the 1/2" water lines for all these devices. I had the choice to either run one hot and one cold from the water pump and have a forest of "T"
fittings under the sole, have each fixture be fed from a central manifold that distributed the hot and cold. I chose to have a central manifold to supply the boat. Having a bunch of "T" fittings did little to give me a warm fuzzy feeling on future maintenance of the boat, and the manifold just made good sense. The hot and cold manifold will be in the lazzerette area of the boat, and will make maintenance and winterizing a breeze. If I choose to expand the water system, Ill do so from this manifold. Since Ill have an air compressor on board, winterizing will be just a matter of opening manifold valves, and blowing all the lines out from one location.

I ran all the water lines in one bundle down the port side of the boat. I had drilled a two inch hole through the galley frames, and installed rubber grommets in the holes to protect the water lines. The rest of the path for the water lines ran through a chase I had created with cabinets and a little framing. The framed chase is easily accessed through the cabinets, or by removing a panel in the master cabin. The framed chase also houses some electric conduit, the water port side water tanks vent lines manifold, the hydraulic lines for the steering system, and more than likely, the hydraulic lines for leading the the wheel house. A pretty busy chase to say the least. The starboard side of the boat has a similar chase that houses the air conditioning feed for the cabins, the toilet waste transport line( if I decide to use a pump model), and some electric conduit.

Since I wanted fill the two inch grommets in the frames, I decided to include the wash down line for the anchor area ( one 1/2" line ), and I also had enough room to include a 1/2" line that will supply compressed air to the wheel house. Ill probably "T" off of this air line in the wheel house and run air to the wash down pump area. When ever I have to get into the area under the bow pulpit, Ill use an impact wrench to remove the 15 or so bolts holding the on the cover plate.





Im leaning towards installing a composting toilet so I installed an 1 1/2" vent line for that type of toilet. I also have a 1 1/2" sch. 40 line installed to transport waste to a black water tank if I decide to use a macerating type toilet.











Since I had the master cabin sink valves installed I wanted to see how the sink fixture looked installed. Because I was scrounging for every available inch in the master cabin, it made more sense to have the sink valve mounted on the wall vs mounted on the sink top. Ive never seen that type of valve before, and Im real happy with how it looks. I also like the look of the under mount sink. In regard to the under mount sink, there was quite a bit more size choices in a bar style vs a vanity style as long as one can live with the bar size sink strainer ( Im one of those folks who can live with bar style sink strainer).

Do you find information about Boat Plans Bartender are you looking for? If not, below may help you find more information about the Boat Plans Bartender. Thank you for visiting, have a great day.

Continue

Boat Plans Bolger | More Plumbing

Boat Plans Bolger

I finished making all the plumbing connections for the cabins.

99% of the connections are under the sole in the bathroom. This space has turned into a busy area as it has passing through it four fill lines for the water tanks, the shower/sink pump sump, the water supply lines for the two sinks, the drain lines for the two sinks, the drain line for the shower, the "Y" valve for directing the sump discharge, the transport lines for the sump discharge, the 1 1/2" transport line for a possible future macerating type toilet, and the wiring for the sump. I made a valid attempt at keeping this space orderly, and if I had used some more fittings on the drain and discharge lines, I could have kept things really tight but I instead opted for less fittings and more flexible pipe.

Im going to build the shower stall out of tile. Since I was working in this area, I decided to install the backer board for the tile, and the shower pan. Before I installed the backer board, I glued a closed cell foam gasket to the flange of the port light to stop condensation. Once the tile is installed along with the port light, Ill detail the gasket more so it will make more sense to anyone reading. As per a request from the three woman in the house, I built a ledge in the shower stall for a place to prop up a leg.

After making all the connections, I ran the shower sump to verify the flow rate. The shower sump is not going to have enough ass to move the shower water to my proposed gray water tank area ( the rear of the boat). Im going to have to find another area for my gray water holding tank. The best place for this tank is going to be close to the overboard discharge point in the forward cabins. The tank will probably end up in the "V" up against the crash bulkhead @ station #1. I think Ill be able to fit a 40 gallon tank. My other choice is going to be under one of the kids bunks. The problem with going under the bunk, is that Ill eliminate a much needed storage cabinet.

Im ready to sheath the bathroom, the dressing room/hallway, and part of the kids cabin. Im going to have to hold off on sheathing the rest of the cabin until I get the gray water tank installed.




Im going to use a composting toilet, but just in cast it does not perform, I installed a transport line for a future macerating style toilet. I plumbed this in with 1 1/2" sch. for pipe, using pressure fittings. I wanted to stay away from flexible pipe for this application so I had to use a few 45 degree fittings to get the pipe squared back up with the framing as it enters the bathroom area. This 1 1/2" line goes to the rear of the boat where Ill have a black water tank. The folks at Raritan assure me that their toilets can handle the lift and length of pipe just fine.

Do you find information about Boat Plans Bolger are you looking for? If not, below may help you find more information about the Boat Plans Bolger. Thank you for visiting, have a great day.

Continue